The Complete Indian Ethnic Wear Fabric & Care Guide — Chikankari, Chanderi, Bandhej, Brocade & More

You just bought a beautiful handcrafted outfit. How do you make sure it stays beautiful for years?

The single most common question we get at our JP Nagar boutique isn't about style or fit — it's about care. "How do I wash my Chikankari?" "Can I iron my brocade?" "Will Bandhej bleed?"

Indian ethnic wear isn't like fast fashion. These fabrics are handcrafted by artisans using techniques passed down through generations. They need different care than your everyday clothes. But most people were never taught how to care for them properly.

After working directly with Chikankari artisans in Lucknow, Bandhej craftspeople in Jaipur, Chanderi weavers in Madhya Pradesh, and Shibori dyers in Kutch, I've learned the right way to care for every fabric in our collection. Here's everything you need to know.

Chikankari — The Art of Lucknowi Hand-Embroidery

What it is: Chikankari is a traditional hand-embroidery style from Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, dating back over 400 years to the Mughal era. It involves intricate white thread embroidery on soft fabrics — typically cotton, but also on silk, georgette, and organza. Each piece takes 5–30 days to complete depending on the complexity.

How to identify authentic Chikankari: Real Chikankari has slight variations in stitch length — no two stitches are exactly identical. Flip the fabric over: authentic hand-embroidery has an irregular, slightly messy reverse side. Machine-made imitations have perfectly uniform stitches on both sides.

Care instructions:

• Washing: Hand wash in cold water with mild liquid detergent. Never use bleach or harsh detergents. Soak for 5-10 minutes, then gently swish. Do not rub or scrub the embroidered areas.
• Drying: Do not wring or twist. Roll the garment in a clean, dry towel to absorb excess water. Hang dry in shade — never in direct sunlight, which can yellow the white thread.
• Ironing: Iron while slightly damp on medium heat (cotton setting). Iron on the reverse side to protect the embroidery. If using steam, avoid direct steam on the embroidered areas.
• Storing: Store in a cotton or muslin bag. Never store Chikankari in plastic — it traps moisture and can cause yellowing. Add neem leaves or lavender sachets to prevent moth damage.
• Stain removal: Blot stains immediately with cold water. For turmeric or oil stains, apply a paste of baking soda and water, let sit for 15 minutes, then rinse. For stubborn stains, use a mild oxygen-based bleach — never chlorine bleach.

Shop Yellow Chikankari Co-Ord →

Chanderi Silk — The Lightweave from Madhya Pradesh

What it is: Chanderi is a lightweight silk-cotton or pure silk fabric woven in the town of Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh. Known for its distinctive texture — matte on one side, slightly glossy on the other — and its characteristic golden zari border woven into the fabric itself.

How to identify authentic Chanderi: Real Chanderi has a unique texture — it's not perfectly smooth but has a slightly irregular, handwoven feel. Hold it up to light: authentic Chanderi has subtle gaps and variations in the weave that prove it's handwoven, not machine-made.

Care instructions:

• Washing: Dry cleaning is recommended for Chanderi silk. If you must hand wash, use cold water with a silk-friendly liquid detergent. Never soak for more than 5 minutes.
• Drying: Roll in a dry towel to remove water. Never wring. Hang dry in full shade — sunlight fades the natural dyes and weakens the silk fibers.
• Ironing: Iron on low heat (silk setting) on the reverse side. Preferably use a cotton cloth between the iron and the fabric. Steam is fine — Chanderi responds well to steam.
• Storing: Roll rather than fold to prevent creases along fold lines. Store in a muslin bag with a few neem leaves. Never hang Chanderi for long periods — the weight can stretch the fabric.
• Stain removal: Chanderi is delicate. For stains, take it to a professional dry cleaner. If you attempt spot cleaning, test on an inconspicuous area first. Never rub — dab gently.

Shop Chanderi Silk Kurta →

Brocade — The Woven Elegance

What it is: Brocade is a rich, textured fabric woven with raised patterns, often incorporating metallic threads (zari) in gold or silver. It's one of the most formal and festive fabrics in Indian ethnic wear — perfect for receptions, cocktail parties, and weddings.

Care instructions:

• Washing: Dry clean only. Never machine wash or hand wash brocade — the water and agitation can damage the raised patterns and metallic threads.
• Drying: Always air dry after dry cleaning. Never use a machine dryer.
• Ironing: Iron on low heat on the reverse side. Place a thin cotton cloth between the iron and the fabric. Avoid ironing directly over the metallic threads — high heat can tarnish them.
• Storing: Store flat in a cotton bag. Never hang brocade for long periods — the weight of the fabric can cause it to stretch and lose its shape. If you must hang it, use a padded hanger with wide arms.
• Stain removal: Brocade stains should always be handled by a professional dry cleaner. Never attempt to rub or spot-clean brocade at home.

Shop Brocade Kurta →

Bandhej — The Tie-Dye Tradition of Rajasthan

What it is: Bandhej (also called Bandhani) is a traditional tie-dye technique from Rajasthan and Gujarat. Small sections of fabric are tightly tied with thread before dyeing, creating distinct circular patterns. The craft dates back over 5,000 years and is one of India's oldest textile traditions.

How to identify authentic Bandhej: Real Bandhej has tiny raised bumps where the fabric was tied. Run your hand across the fabric — you should feel slight texture from the tied areas. The pattern should not be perfectly uniform — slight variations in the size and spacing of dots indicate handwork.

Care instructions:

• Washing: Hand wash in cold water separately — Bandhej dyes can bleed on the first few washes. Use mild detergent specifically for colours. Add a tablespoon of salt or vinegar to the first wash to help set the colour.
• Drying: Never wring — the tied areas can deform. Roll in a dry towel and gently press to remove water. Hang dry in shade. Dry Bandhej away from other clothes to prevent colour transfer.
• Ironing: Iron on medium heat on the reverse side. Iron while slightly damp for best results.
• Storing: Store in a dark, dry place away from direct sunlight — the natural dyes can fade over time. Use acid-free tissue paper between folds to prevent colour transfer onto adjacent fabrics.
• Colour bleeding: Bandhej dyes are natural and may bleed slightly on every wash. Always wash with similar colours. For the first 3-4 washes, add a colour-catching sheet to the water.

Shop Bandhej Kurta →

Shibori — The Japanese-Indian Indigo Technique

What it is: Shibori is a resist-dye technique that originated in Japan but has been adopted and adapted by Indian artisans, particularly in Kutch, Gujarat. The fabric is folded, twisted, or bound before dyeing with indigo, creating unique, one-of-a-kind patterns.

Care instructions:

• Washing: Hand wash in cold water separately — indigo dye bleeds heavily on the first several washes. Use a mild detergent for dark colours. Never use bleach — it strips the indigo.
• Drying: Hang dry in shade. Indigo is photosensitive — direct sunlight fades the colour unevenly. Always dry inside out.
• Ironing: Iron on medium heat on the reverse side. The creases and folds in Shibori are part of the aesthetic — don't try to iron them completely flat.
• Storing: Store away from light-coloured fabrics — the indigo can transfer even when dry. Use a dedicated cotton bag.
• Colour care: The first 5-6 washes will release excess indigo. This is normal and part of the fabric's character. Each wash will slightly change the shade, creating a beautiful natural fade over time.

Shop Shibori Kurta →

Zari Silk — The Fabric That Catches Light

What it is: Zari silk is woven with metallic threads (traditionally real silver or gold, now often high-quality imitation) to create a fabric that shimmers and catches light. It's one of the most festive fabrics in Indian ethnic wear — used for special occasion kurta sets, anarkalis, and sarees.

Care instructions:

• Washing: Dry clean only. Water and friction can tarnish the metallic threads and cause them to break.
• Drying: Air dry only, away from direct sunlight.
• Ironing: Iron on very low heat on the reverse side. Always use a cotton press cloth between the iron and the fabric. Never iron directly over zari work — the heat can melt or tarnish the metallic coating.
• Storing: Wrap in acid-free tissue paper and store in a cotton bag. Do not hang zari silk for extended periods — the weight of the metallic threads can distort the fabric. Add silica gel packets to the storage bag to absorb moisture.
• Tarnish prevention: Zari threads can tarnish over time, especially in humid climates. Store with silica gel packets. If tarnishing occurs, a professional dry cleaner may be able to restore the shine.

Shop Zari Silk Kurta →

Mukesh Work — The Metallic Embroidery

What it is: Mukesh work is a type of metallic embroidery using flattened silver or gold wire that is stitched onto fabric to create intricate patterns. It originated in Rajasthan and is known for its distinctive shine and raised texture.

Care instructions:

• Washing: Dry clean only. Like zari, the metallic threads are delicate and can be damaged by water and friction.
• Drying: Air dry away from direct sunlight. Never machine dry.
• Ironing: Iron on low heat on the reverse side with a press cloth. Avoid direct contact between the iron and the Mukesh work.
• Storing: Store flat in a cotton bag with acid-free tissue paper. The metallic threads can press into the fabric if stored under heavy weight. Keep in a dry environment to prevent tarnishing.
• Handling: Mukesh work is delicate and can snag on jewellery, zippers, and rough surfaces. Be gentle when wearing and handling the fabric.

Shop Mukesh Work Kurta →

Quick Reference: Fabric Care at a Glance

Fabric	Wash	Dry	Iron	Store
Chikankari (Cotton)	Hand wash cold	Shade dry	Medium, reverse	Muslin bag
Chanderi Silk	Dry clean	Shade dry	Low, reverse	Roll, muslin
Brocade	Dry clean only	Air dry	Low with cloth	Flat, cotton bag
Bandhej	Hand wash cold, separate	Shade dry	Medium, reverse	Dark, acid-free
Shibori	Hand wash cold, separate	Shade, inside out	Medium, reverse	Separate bag
Zari Silk	Dry clean only	Air dry	Very low with cloth	Acid-free, silica
Mukesh Work	Dry clean only	Air dry	Low with cloth	Flat, cotton bag
Georgette	Hand wash cold	Shade dry	Low, reverse	Hang or fold
Crush Tissue	Hand wash cold	Drip dry	Low, no steam	Hang loosely

General Rules for All Ethnic Wear

• Never use bleach: Chlorine bleach destroys natural fibres and discolours dyes. Use oxygen-based bleach only for whites, and only if absolutely necessary.
• Never wring or twist: Wringing damages the weave of delicate fabrics and distorts embroidered areas. Always roll in a towel to remove water.
• Never machine wash handcrafted pieces: The agitation of a machine washing machine can damage hand embroidery, loosen threads, and fade natural dyes.
• Never dry clean too often: Dry cleaning chemicals are harsh on delicate fabrics. Spot clean when possible and dry clean only when necessary.
• Always test stain removers: Before applying any stain remover, test it on an inconspicuous area (inside seam, hidden corner) to make sure it doesn't damage the colour or fabric.
• Always store clean: Stains set over time. Clean your outfit before storing it for the season. Even invisible sweat stains can yellow over months.

Seasonal Care Tips

• Monsoon: Humidity is the enemy of ethnic wear. Air your wardrobe weekly. Add silica gel packets to storage bags. Never store even slightly damp clothing — mildew can set in within 48 hours.
• Summer: Sunlight fades natural dyes. Keep outfits away from direct sunlight when storing. Use curtains or UV-protective wardrobe covers.
• Winter: Dry air can make natural fibres brittle. Lightly mist the inside of your wardrobe with water occasionally to maintain humidity. Moth damage is more common in winter — use neem leaves or cedar balls.
• Travel: Pack delicate ethnic wear in a separate bag or wrapped in acid-free tissue. Never pack Chikankari or brocade with zippers or rough fabrics that can snag the embroidery. Roll rather than fold to minimise creases.

Know Your Fabric Before You Buy

Understanding what you're buying is the first step to caring for it properly. At SAROJ JAIN, every product page includes the fabric composition. If you're ever unsure about how to care for a specific piece, WhatsApp us — we'll walk you through it.

Ask us about fabric care →

FAQs About Fabric Care

Can I machine wash Chikankari?

Not recommended. Machine washing can damage the delicate hand embroidery and cause the fabric to lose its shape. Hand wash in cold water with mild detergent — it takes 10 minutes and protects your investment.

How do I remove turmeric stains from white Chikankari?

Act fast. Blot the stain with cold water (don't rub). Apply a paste of baking soda and water, let sit for 15 minutes, then rinse. For stubborn stains, use hydrogen peroxide on a cotton ball — test on an inconspicuous area first.

Can I dry clean my Chanderi kurta?

Yes — dry cleaning is the preferred method for Chanderi silk. If you choose to hand wash, use cold water and silk-friendly detergent, and never wring or twist.

How do I store my ethnic wear long-term?

Clean the outfit first (even invisible stains set over time). Wrap in acid-free tissue paper. Store in a cotton or muslin bag (never plastic). Add neem leaves or lavender sachets for moth protection. Keep in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

Will my Bandhej or Shibori bleed in the wash?

Yes — natural dyes can bleed, especially on the first few washes. Always wash Bandhej and Shibori separately in cold water. Add salt or vinegar to the first wash to help set the colour. The bleeding reduces with each wash.

How often should I dry clean my brocade or zari outfits?

Only when needed. Dry cleaning chemicals are harsh on metallic threads. Spot clean when possible and air out the garment after wearing. Dry clean once every 4-6 wears, or when visibly soiled.

Shop Authentic Handcrafted Fabrics

Every piece at SAROJ JAIN is made with real handwork by real artisans. When you buy from us, you're not just buying an outfit — you're investing in a craft tradition that's been passed down through generations.

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Updated: June 2026
Written by: Saroj Jain Styling Team
Reviewed by: Saroj Jain Boutique Team