The Art of Chikankari — A 400-Year-Old Lucknowi Embroidery Tradition

Every piece of Chikankari begins the same way: with a piece of fabric, a needle, and a pair of hands that have been doing this since childhood.

Not a machine. Not a factory. A person — sitting cross-legged on the floor of a small home in Lucknow, threading a needle by the light of a window, beginning a process that will take anywhere from five days to a full month to complete.

Chikankari is not just embroidery. It's a 400-year-old craft tradition that has survived empires, famines, and the rise of fast fashion. It's the reason we started SAROJ JAIN. And it's the craft that I believe every woman should own at least one piece of — not just because it's beautiful, but because of what it represents.

The Origins — How Chikankari Came to Lucknow

The story of Chikankari begins in the 17th century, during the reign of Mughal Emperor Jahangir. According to legend, a Persian noblewoman taught the craft to a local woman in Lucknow, who then taught others. The word "chikan" is believed to have Persian roots, meaning "embroidery" or "delicate fabric."

Under the Nawabs of Awadh, Chikankari flourished. Lucknow became the centre of this delicate craft, with artisans perfecting techniques that would be passed down through generations. The Nawabs were known for their refined taste — they patronised the arts, and Chikankari was one of their favourites.

What made Chikankari unique was its subtlety. Unlike the bold, colourful embroideries of other regions (like the mirror work of Gujarat or the phulkari of Punjab), Chikankari was understated. It was embroidery that whispered rather than shouted — perfect for the hot, humid climate of the Gangetic plains, where light, breathable fabrics were essential.

For centuries, Chikankari was made exclusively for royalty and nobility. It wasn't until the British era that the craft began to reach a wider audience. And it wasn't until the last few decades that Chikankari became accessible to women across India and the world.

The 7 Core Stitches of Chikankari

What most people don't realise is that "Chikankari" isn't one stitch — it's an entire language of stitches, each with its own name, purpose, and technique. A master artisan might use 7-10 different stitch types in a single piece.

1. Tepchi — The Running Stitch

The most basic Chikankari stitch. A simple running stitch worked in long, straight lines on the right side of the fabric. Tepchi is often used as a base for more complex stitches or for creating linear patterns. It's the stitch that beginners learn first — and it takes about a year of practice to master even this.

2. Bakhiya — The Shadow Work Stitch

Perhaps the most distinctive Chikankari stitch. Bakhiya is worked on the reverse side of the fabric using thick thread, creating a shadow effect on the front. The stitches are close together, almost like satin stitch, but the magic happens on the front — a subtle, shaded pattern that looks almost like a watermark. This is the stitch that gives Chikankari its characteristic "ethereal" quality.

3. Hool — The Eyelet Stitch

A small, circular stitch that creates a tiny hole in the fabric, surrounded by a ring of thread. Hool is used to create flower centres, decorative dots, and intricate patterns. It requires precision — the hole must be perfectly centred, and the thread must be tensioned exactly right to create a clean circle.

4. Zanzeera — The Chain Stitch

A fine chain stitch used for outlining and creating delicate borders. Zanzeera literally means "chain" in Urdu. It's used to define the edges of patterns, create stems for floral motifs, and add structure to the design.

5. Rahet — The Stem Stitch

A twisted stitch that creates a thin, corded line. Rahet is used for stems, vines, and fine outlines. It requires consistent tension — too loose and the line looks sloppy; too tight and the fabric puckers.

6. Murri — The Knot Stitch

A small, raised knot that looks like a minuscule flower bud. Murri is created by wrapping thread around the needle multiple times before pulling through — similar to a French knot but smaller and more precise. It's used for flower centres, decorative fillings, and texture accents.

7. Phanda — The Mille Flower Stitch

A tiny, flat stitch that creates a miniature flower shape. Phanda is even smaller than Murri and is used for creating dense, textured patterns. It's one of the most time-consuming stitches — a single square inch of Phanda work can take an hour to complete.

The Journey of a Chikankari Piece — From Fabric to Finished Outfit

Most people see the finished product. They don't see the journey. Here's how a Chikankari outfit is made:

1. Designing: The pattern is hand-drawn on tracing paper. Each design is unique — even when using similar motifs, the composition differs.
2. Block printing: The design is transferred onto the fabric using a wooden block with a water-soluble ink. This creates a faint blue guideline for the embroiderer.
3. Stitching: The embroiderer works the design stitch by stitch. A simple kurta takes 5-7 days. A heavily embroidered piece can take 25-30 days.
4. Washing: The finished piece is washed to remove the blue guidelines. If the water runs clear, the ink is gone. If not, another wash.
5. Finishing: The fabric is starched, ironed, and checked for defects. Any loose threads are trimmed. The piece is ready for cutting and tailoring.
6. Tailoring: The embroidered fabric is cut and stitched into the final garment — a kurta, co-ord set, saree, or dupatta.

From start to finish, a single Chikankari outfit involves the work of at least 3-4 skilled artisans. And that's not counting the farmers who grew the cotton, the weavers who made the fabric, or the dyers who prepared the thread.

How to Identify Authentic Chikankari vs Machine Imitations

This is the most important thing to know — because imitations are everywhere, and most people are paying for machine work thinking it's handcrafted.

• The reverse side test: Flip the fabric over. Authentic hand-embroidered Chikankari has a slightly irregular, messy reverse side with loose threads and uneven stitches. Machine-made Chikankari has a perfectly clean reverse side — too clean. If both sides look similar, it's machine work.
• The stitch variation test: Look closely at the stitches. Authentic Chikankari has slight variations in stitch length and spacing — no two stitches are exactly identical. Machine embroidery is perfectly uniform. Those tiny variations are the signature of the human hand.
• The feel test: Run your finger over the embroidery. Authentic Chikankari has a soft, slightly raised texture. Machine embroidery feels flatter and more uniform. The thread in hand embroidery has a subtle irregularity that you can feel.
• The price test: Real hand-embroidered Chikankari takes 5-30 days per piece. If the price seems too good to be true — say, under ₹800 for a full kurta — it's almost certainly machine-made.
• The fabric test: Authentic Chikankari is almost always on natural fabrics — cotton, silk, georgette, organza. If the fabric feels synthetic and the embroidery looks too perfect, it's imitation.

Shop Authentic Yellow Chikankari Co-Ord →

The Artisans Behind the Craft

Today, most Chikankari artisans work from their homes in Lucknow and the surrounding districts of Uttar Pradesh. A typical artisan is a woman who learned the craft from her mother, who learned it from her mother before her. She works while managing her household, sitting on a floor cushion, the fabric spread across her lap, her needle moving with a rhythm that comes from decades of practice.

Most artisans earn between ₹200 and ₹500 per day, depending on the complexity of the work. At SAROJ JAIN, we work directly with artisan cooperatives to ensure fair wages and consistent work. By cutting out the middlemen — the agents, the wholesalers, the distributors — we can pay the artisans more while keeping prices accessible for our customers.

This is the model I believe in. Not charity. Not "empowerment" as a marketing slogan. Just fair trade, direct relationships, and respect for the skill that takes a lifetime to develop.

Why Chikankari Belongs in Every Wardrobe

Chikankari isn't just for weddings and festivals. It's one of the most versatile crafts in Indian fashion:

• Office wear: A white or pastel Chikankari kurta is the perfect work-from-office outfit — professional, comfortable, and effortlessly elegant.
• Daily wear: A cotton Chikankari co-ord set is lightweight, breathable, and easy to care for. Perfect for running errands or meeting friends for coffee.
• Wedding guest: A Chikankari co-ord in a festive colour like yellow or sea green is the ideal wedding guest outfit — comfortable enough for long ceremonies, beautiful enough for photos.
• Travel: Chikankari packs flat, doesn't crease badly, and looks great even after being folded in a suitcase. It's the most travel-friendly Indian ethnic wear you can own.
• Gifting: A Chikankari piece is a thoughtful, meaningful gift. It's not just an outfit — it's a piece of Indian heritage.

Shop Sea Green Chikankari Co-Ord →

Caring for Your Chikankari

Chikankari is delicate. With proper care, it can last for decades — I've seen 30-year-old Chikankari pieces that look as beautiful as the day they were made.

• Washing: Hand wash in cold water with mild detergent. Never use bleach. Never machine wash.
• Drying: Do not wring. Roll in a towel to remove water. Hang dry in shade — sunlight yellows the white thread.
• Ironing: Iron while slightly damp, on medium heat, on the reverse side. This protects the embroidery.
• Stains: Blot immediately with cold water. For turmeric or oil, use a baking soda paste. For stubborn stains, consult a dry cleaner.
• Storage: Store in a cotton bag with neem leaves. Never use plastic — it traps moisture and causes yellowing.

Read our complete Fabric & Care Guide →

Why We Do What We Do

I started SAROJ JAIN because I believe that beautiful things should be made by hand, by people who love what they do. Every Chikankari piece we sell represents hours of skilled work by an artisan in Lucknow. It represents a tradition that has survived four centuries. And it represents a choice — to buy something with a story, made by a human being, rather than a machine.

When you wear Chikankari, you're not just wearing an outfit. You're wearing history. You're wearing the skill of hands that have been perfecting this craft for generations. And you're helping keep a 400-year-old tradition alive for the next generation.

Shop Our Chikankari Collection

Every piece in our Chikankari collection is authentic, hand-embroidered, and made by artisans we work with directly. No machine work. No middlemen. Just real craft, fairly made.

Explore Chikankari Collection →

FAQs About Chikankari

What is the difference between Chikankari and machine embroidery?

Chikankari is hand-embroidered by skilled artisans using traditional techniques. Machine embroidery is done by computerised machines. Authentic Chikankari has slight stitch variations, a messy reverse side, and a softer, more organic feel. Machine embroidery is perfectly uniform on both sides.

How long does it take to make a Chikankari kurta?

A simple Chikankari kurta takes 5-7 days of embroidery work. A heavily embroidered piece can take 25-30 days. This doesn't include the time to weave the fabric, design the pattern, block print the guidelines, or tailor the finished garment.

Can Chikankari be machine washed?

Not recommended. Hand wash in cold water with mild detergent. The agitation of a machine can damage the delicate embroidery and cause the threads to loosen.

Is all Chikankari white on white?

Traditionally, yes — Chikankari was white thread on white or cream fabric. But modern Chikankari comes in many colours. The most popular shades today are pastels (yellow, sea green, mint, peach), which show off the white embroidery beautifully.

How can I tell if Chikankari is authentic?

Check the reverse side — authentic Chikankari has an irregular, messy back with loose threads. Look for slight stitch variations (no two stitches are identical). Feel the texture — authentic Chikankari is soft and slightly raised. And trust the price — genuine hand-embroidered Chikankari cannot cost under ₹1,500 for a kurta.

Does Chikankari last?

With proper care, Chikankari can last for decades. The cotton fabric may fade and soften over time, but the embroidery itself becomes more beautiful with age. I've seen heirloom Chikankari pieces that are 30+ years old and still stunning.

Updated: June 2026
Written by: Saroj Jain Styling Team
Reviewed by: Saroj Jain Boutique Team